The girls next door

Craquele... seen on the web...

2012-01-28T14:04:00.000+01:00

Source: http://www.flickr.com/photos/alessiastre/

Real leaves... seen on the web

2012-01-26T14:00:00.000+01:00

Source: http://www.flickr.com/photos/tavostia/

Cookies.... myummie! Seen on the web...

2012-01-14T13:46:00.000+01:00

Source: http://www.flickr.com/photos/tangerinetaiyaki/

Geometry... seen on the web

2012-01-12T13:42:00.000+01:00

Source: http://www.flickr.com/photos/vim_hm/

Wauwwwww..... seen on the web...

2012-01-12T13:40:00.000+01:00

Source: http://www.flickr.com/photos/vim_hm/

How to: Make a texture roller for clay

2012-01-10T13:36:00.000+01:00

How to: Make a texture roller for clay

Circus beads... seen on the web!

2012-01-08T13:29:00.000+01:00

Source: http://skwizzscreation.canalblog.com/archives/p10-10.html

Lisa Pavelka's Tips

2012-01-06T13:25:00.000+01:00

Spinner Ring by Lisa Pavelka
Clean and Preserve Polymer Clay BladesLisa suggests using 800-grit automotive-grade wet/dry sandpaper to keep clay blades sharp and extend their usefulness. She recommends holding the folded piece of sandpaper inside part of a dishwashing sponge to protect your fingers; then slide the paper back and forth over the edge of your clay blade to clean and sharpen it. Turn the blade over and repeat for that side as well.

If you do have to discard an old clay blade, she suggests doing so safely by covering them in scrap clay and baking to harden it before disposing.


Blue Flower Necklace by Lisa Pavelka

Use a Thermometer!"Always, always, always bake your clay with an oven thermometer!" Lisa says. "Why go to all of that work to create a thing of beauty only to find out your oven is running too hot? It's the best few dollars you'll ever spend. It also is great for making sure a class or friend's oven is correctly calibrated before use. I personally use two, especially when traveling. If one is off, you have a damaged thermometer." She also recommends making sure to preheat your oven well to avoid any issues with temperature spikes.

Polymer Clay Work Surfaces: Ceramic Tile, Wax PaperA smooth ceramic tile is wonderful for a polymer clay work surface for several reasons. You can transfer your polymer clay jewelry-making projects straight into the oven on the tile without trying to lift them off; they're nearly impossible to scratch with your clay blade or other tools; and they're inexpensive and readily available. Lisa recommends having several on hand in a variety of sizes.


	Bird Ring by Lisa Pavelka

Deli sheets of wax paper are also good nonstick work surfaces for polymer clay. Lisa added that they make great stamping and powder masks on your clay jewelry projects, and they can help you turn your polymer clay jewelry designs as you work on them, like a Lazy Susan.

Condition Polymer Clay Light to DarkThis is a simple tip that wouldn't always come to mind without a reminder: Begin conditioning and working with lighter colored clays first; then move on to darker colors. One of the best tips I learned from Lisa about working with polymer clay is to clean your hands in between colors with baby wipes. Great idea!

There you go, polymer clay jewelry-making tips from the queen of clay herself! Thanks Lisa!

Source: http://www.jewelrymakingdaily.com/blogs/daily/archive/2011/03/18/polymer-clay-jewelry-making-top-tips-and-inspiration-from-lisa-pavelka.aspx

Bezels... seen on web!

2012-01-04T13:19:00.000+01:00

Source: http://loretcreations.canalblog.com/

Happy newyear!!!

2011-12-31T23:58:00.000+01:00

Happy New Year to you all!!!

Flowersssss earrings.... seen on the web

2011-12-30T12:32:00.000+01:00

How to write special characters??

2011-12-29T11:54:00.000+01:00

Ever wonder how to do some of those I-special characters like ♥ and ♫ ? Well, here you are! All in one printable list..

A must have!!!

2011-12-28T12:20:00.000+01:00

Source: http://www.notonthehighstreet.com/notajewellerybox/product/the-little-book-of-earring-earring-storage

Acorn earings - seen on the web

2011-12-28T11:27:00.000+01:00

These earrings for your bridesmaids boast BFF-worthy qualities (they're hip, handmade, and look expensive) -- yet they cost just a few dollars.
The charming illustrations for the backing were created for us by Virginia-based illustrator Katy Jean May. If you like the style but want something different, you can commission her to draw something for you. Reach her at 215-356-9513.
These are sized to fit into a 2-1/8- by-3-inch jewelry box. The images are designed to have the larger white space toward the bottom of the box.

Tools and Materials
Pushpin
12-millimeter yellow jade beads, Fun2Bead
Acorns, Dry Nature Designs
1 1/2-millimeter gold ball pin, 24-gauge fish hook earring, both Toho Shoji N.Y.
PDFs (Tree Card 1, Tree Card 2, Tree Card 3)
Stiff paper or card stock
Craft knife
Metal straightedge
Small Japanese hole punch
3-by-2-1/8-by-1-inch Natural Kraft jewelry box (stock No. 6K), Nashville Wraps

Acorn Earrings How-To1. With a pushpin, poke hole through acorn cap from underneath.
2. Slide bead and cap onto a jewelry finding called a head pin.
3. With needle-nose pliers, make a loop just above the cap, and cut away extra wire.
4. Slide a hook on.

Backing How-To1. Download the PDFs (Tree Card 1, Tree Card 2, Tree Card 3), and print onto stiff paper or card stock. Use a craft knife and metal straightedge to cut between the crop marks; do not cut all the way to the edges of the paper, but leave them intact to preserve the crop marks for subsequent cuts.
2. Use a small Japanese hole punch to make two holes along each branch for the earrings.

Source: http://www.marthastewart.com/

Anti-winter-project! DIY Fossils

2011-12-27T12:10:00.000+01:00

Seen on the web:

And when finished... you have that summerfeeling again... we're sure!

Source: http://www.kokokokids.ru/2011/08/handmade-fossils.html

Googley Eyed Bangle - seen on the web

2011-12-27T11:09:00.002+01:00

Add an eerie element to your look with these fun bangles. Your friends won't believe their eyes.

Tools and Materials

Plastic bangle bracelet (new or used)
E6000 contact cement
Variety pack of wiggle (googly) eyes
Bamboo skewer and beeswax (optional)

Googly-Eyed Bangle How-To
1. Working in 1-inch sections, spread a layer of contact cement on bangle. Place eyes in glue, filling in the section with various sizes. Repeat to cover entire bracelet. Tip: To pick up smaller eyes, use a "grabber": a bamboo skewer topped with a piece of beeswax.
2. Let bangle dry overnight.

Resources
E6000 contact cement.

Source: http://www.marthastewart.com/

How to remove acrylic paint?

2011-12-27T03:57:00.002+01:00

All acrylic paints can be tricky to remove from your clothes once dry, but I have a little method that I'll share with you. While it's not foolproof - it works about 99% of the time. You can always give it a try! Hey your shirt already has paint on it, what's the worst that can happen!?

Rubbing Alcohol to the rescue! You'll want just regular Rubbing Alcohol that you can get from your drugstore or grocery store.

Using a paper towel completely soak the area with the dried on paint. Use A LOT of Rubbing Alcohol and get the area 100% saturated. The resins in the paint will be broken down by the rubbing alcohol.

With your fingernail (or use a coffee stirrer), scratch at the area gently going with and against the grain of the fabric. Keep applying more Rubbing Alcohol to lift off the stain.

At a certain point you get as far as you can with the stain. Sometimes you still see a little bit of it, but it's much better than what you started off with! Throw it in the wash right away and usually even more of the stain will be removed in the wash cycle.

Source: http://claudinehellmuth.blogspot.com/2010/01/how-to-remove-acrylic-paint-from-your.html

How to make your own air dried porcelain with common household ingredients

2011-12-26T13:09:00.001+01:00

How to make your own air dried porcelain with common household ingredients

Knot bracelets - seen on the web

2011-12-26T11:08:00.004+01:00

Two types of knots, which are symbols of everlasting unity, are showcased in these colorful bracelets: the cross knot and the overhand knot. Fasten with mother-of-pearl buttons and present the bracelet on this printable card.

Source: http://www.marthastewart.com/

Bird ornaments... seen on the web

2011-12-25T12:35:00.000+01:00

Source: http://blogdelanine.blogspot.com/2010_12_01_archive.html

Merry Christmas & Happy Newyear!

2011-12-24T11:03:00.000+01:00

Lovely Chrismas pendants... seen on the web!

2011-11-28T13:59:00.001+01:00

.: Some of the clay ornaments that were created today! :.
Inspired by a piece of pottery I had recently seen at my mother's home, I knew right away that I wanted to create a similar clean look of white pottery while using a different medium and my own designs.

.:By placing greenery on the clay and rolling over it with a rolling pin, an impression was created! :.
With Sculpey Clay (Ultra Light) as my medium, I began an evening full with creating! I chose to use a decorative piece of greenery in lieu of a natural green. It would make a deep impression into the clay and be re-usable throughout the process.

.: Cutting shapes from the clay with small cookie cutters! :.
With the greenery placed on top of the clay, I rolled over it with the rolling pin two to three times. With a toothpick I then helped the green back out of the clay. Next, I began cutting out shapes over the embossed clay with small cookie cutters.

.: Many of the finished clay pieces! :.
Once the ornament shapes were created, I used a toothpick to make circles in each new clay shape. Later I could thread hemp twine and beads through through the opening to create ornaments.

.: Clay ornaments hardening after spending some time in the oven :.
After cooking the ornaments in the oven, the clay is now hardened.
.:With hemp twine the ornaments are strung. Later wooden beads will be added:.

.: My daughter's lovely finished creation she plans to gift on Valentine's Day! :.

Source: http://gardenmama.typepad.com/my_weblog/page/5/

We lovvvvvve flowers... DIY... seen on the web...

2011-11-01T13:47:00.000+01:00

Want to make your own? Keep reading to find out how!

You will need:

Tissue paper
Scissors
2 large paper clips
Pipe cleaners (chenille stems) or floral wire
Coloured marker pen
Optional: floral wire, floral tape, wire cutters

You can make your carnations any size, but I found that a 3″ (7.5cm) circle gives a realistic-sized flower. Fold your tissue paper in half again and again until it is just larger than your circle size. I used a 20×24″ sheet of tissue paper, which let me cut 48 circles at once – enough for 4-5 carnations!
Find a suitably-sized circular container and draw around it with a pencil onto your folded tissue paper.

Start to cut out the circle, holding all the layers of tissue paper together. If you can’t cut through the whole thickness, try cutting half the layers at a time, then draw another circle to cut out the other half. I found that I could cut through 48 layers with no problem, as the tissue paper is so thin. You don’t have to cut too exactly, so don’t worry if some of the layers don’t come out as perfect circles. Use a large paper clip to help keep the layers together.

As you continue to cut, add a second paper clip on the opposite side of the circles to keep all the circles together.

This next step is the key to making the flowers look more realistic than standard tissue paper flowers. If you are in a hurry or making them with children, you could skip this step and still end up with nice flowers. It is a bit tricky and takes a few minutes to complete, but I think it’s worth it!
Take a marker pen with a complementary colour (a cheap kids’ pen is fine). A bold colour will give a more effective result. Use your non-writing hand to hold the edges of all the tissue-paper layers together, and use the side of the pen nib to begin to gently colour the edge of the circles. Take this slowly – if you press too hard, the tissue paper layers will separate. Colour a small section of the edge at a time, and go over each section a few times to ensure the colour is intense and the ink has saturated all the edges.

Continue to colour around the edge. When you are about halfway through, move the paper clips to areas you have already coloured, and fill in the gaps.
Note: I have switched to the white tissue paper for these photos as the coloured pen shows up more clearly!

..Erm, yes. You may well end up with a coloured finger by the time you have finished (see below) as you have to hold the papers close to the edge to keep them together while you colour them! Don’t worry – it’ll wash off

Remove the paper clips and select enough circles from the pile to make one flower. I used approx 12 circles per flower, but 8-10 circles would be fine.
Keep these circles together and poke two holes near the centre of the circles. I used the end of a pipe cleaner to do this, but if your pipe cleaners aren’t sharp enough you could use a large needle or similar.
Fold down about 1 inch of the pipe cleaner, and push the long end through one hole and the short end through the other hole.

Pull the ends all the way through, then twist the ends of the pipe cleaner together underneath the flower to keep all the circles together:

Now to make the petals. Separate the topmost circle and crumple it upwards from the centre. Scrunch up the paper randomly, but try to concentrate on the base of the petal (the centre of the circle) and leave the coloured edges alone.

Now repeat with each circle in turn. Crinkle each circle up individually, and try not to have the folds in the same place each time. You can see (below, right) how I am squeezing my fingers around the base of the petal each time I add a new circle. This stops the coloured petal edges from being creased into folds.

Keep scrunching… When all the circles have been crumpled up, you will end up with a lovely carnation like this:

And that’s it for the basic tutorial! If you are making these with children, you probably want to stop at this point. If you want to make the stems look more realistic, here are some ideas:
Make a double-headed stem by cutting down one pipe cleaner to half its length (use wire cutters for this) then twisting it together with another completed stem:

I wasn’t satisfied with my green furry caterpillar stems, so I converted them with some floral wires and green floral tape:
Cut the floral wire to the same length as your stem.

Holding the wire and pipe cleaner stem together, start to wrap the floral tape tightly around them. Start about 1″ down from the flower head (below, left) and wrap up the stem to the head. Then wrap all the way down the stem to the bottom. To wrap without the tape getting tangled up, hold the tape steady and at an angle to the stem with one hand (below, right), and use your other hand to twirl the stem around, winding the tape around itself as it goes.

The floral tape will stick to itself, so there is no need to use glue to fasten it down. Remember to stretch the end of the tape as you wrap the end of the stem, to help it to stick securely.
Make just one as a paper buttonhole. Make about a dozen, and you have a beautiful bouquet!

Source: http://foldingtrees.com/2008/08/flower-week-tissue-paper-carnations/

Presents? Seen on the web...

2011-10-31T13:43:00.001+01:00

To begin, choose your paper. You need six sheets of matching paper (preferably a heavier weight). Choose one for your outside, a contrasting one for your lid, and 4 to create the inside boxes. Cut as follows (all measurement are in inches):

Outside: 6 x 11 3/4ths
Lid: 8.5 x 8.5
4 inner boxes: 8 x 8

The only challenging part of this project is creating the lid and inside compartments. The good news is, they follow the exact same process.

1. Draw a line from corner to corner on the back side of your paper.

2. fold the tips of your paper in so that they meet at the center. It will look as though you are folding an envelope.
Fold in all four sides, and then unfold.

3. Fold the tips up to the folded line on each side. This fold gives you the sides of your box. Do it on all four sides. When you are finished you should have creases all the way around. I have taken a marker and drawn lines on my creases. This is not necessary. This is to help you see where there should be folds. The first two lines you drew will NOT be creased.

4. I have also colored four triangles. Cut those out. You will be left with this:

5. See the arrows? Cut those lines up to the tip of the arrows. You should get this:

6. You have created two sets of tabs. Bring them together to form a wall of the box like so: Now fold the flap over those tabs. Do the same thing on the other side.

7. Your flaps won’t want to stay down on their own. Fold in the other two flaps and press the corners in firmly. Once all four corners are in, the box will stay together without any glue.

Repeat this process on your 8 inch and 8.5 inch papers. You should have 4 boxes and the lid.

Now for the outside.

1. Take the 11 3/4ths x 6 inch paper and fold it in half.

2. Open it up and fold the ends into the center. You should have four perfectly even quadrants.

To put the boxes in, first adhere one to the very top right corner, making certain that you are flush with the corner of the outside paper.

Adhere the next one to the bottom left corner, once again flush to the edge.

Align the inside two boxes so that they are in centered in their own quarter of the paper, but not overlapping each other so you can still fold the box shut.

Once the glue is dry (I do recommend a liquid glue to extra staying power) you should be able to close your box and the lid should fit perfectly on top. One corner of the box will remain open, as no part is designed to overlap. To remedy this, I like to tie mine up with ribbons. You can embellish them any way that you like.

Here are a few that I’ve made.

transparency

Source: http://lifeaslou.blogsome.com/2008/01/30/magic-boxes-a-life-as-lou-online-class/

Flowerssss! Seen on the web!

2011-10-31T13:39:00.002+01:00

Look closely!

Yes way! Michelle Brand, an eco-designer from Manchester in the UK, repurposes the bottoms of discarded plastic soda bottles to create these breathtakingly beautiful decorative light fixtures, lamp shades, curtains, room dividers, and more. Ingenious and quite stunning, don’t you agree?

From plastic bottle to blossoms, garlands and fairy lights, it’s up-cycling at its best!

From the pics, it looks like she uses a clothing tag attacher gun for connecting the pieces– much easier than punching individual holes and threading the bottoms with fishing line!! Sooo whadyathink, DIY potential? Yay or nay, here’s wishing you all a Happy Earth Day!

Source: http://www.i-do-it-yourself.com/2009/04/eco-friendly-blossoms-by-michelle-brand/

Warmmmmmm!

2011-10-30T13:22:00.000+01:00

Time to start hording those pullovers!

2011-10-29T16:37:00.000+02:00

Source: http://pinterest.com/pin/398868735/

Paperrrrrr

2011-10-29T13:34:00.000+02:00

Magazine paper rolled up and glued to a balloon. Burst balloon after drying.

Source: http://pinterest.com/pin/398880163/

Bookshelves...

2011-10-28T13:34:00.001+02:00

Definitely have to re-arrange my books!

Creative mirror....

2011-10-28T13:32:00.000+02:00

Seen on the web...

Source: http://www.ceocooleclecticoriginal.com/2011/09/virtual-nesting-project-2-kiddos-room.html

Miniatures... myummie!

2011-10-28T13:26:00.000+02:00

The following is an ever growing list of the best tutorials for Dollhouse Miniatures made of Polymer Clay that we came across on the net. They come in all kinds of languages so to follow them just go by what you see :)

Apples 1
Apples 2
Bacon & Eggs 1
Bacon & Eggs 2
Bananaslices
Basket 1
Basket 2
Black Forest Cake
Bowl 1
Bowl 2
Bread 1
Bread 2
Breadrolls
Cabbage (.pdf file)
Candles 1
Candles 2
Carrots
Chocolate Vanilla Cake
Christmas Cake
Clay Pots (.pdf file)
Cookies 1
Cookies 2
Door Hinges
Doughnuts
Egg Shells
Fish 1 (.pdf file)
Fish 2
French Bread
Gambas
Grapes (.pdf file)
Jelly Cake
Kiwi
Kiwi Cake
Leek 1
Leek 2
Lime
Mushrooms (.pdf file)
Mussels
Onion 1
Onion 2
Orange
Peach
Pears
Pie
Pizza1
Pizza2
Potatoes 1
Potatoes 2
Potatoes 3
Pumpkin
Plates
Rice Krispies
Soup
Sponge Cake
Spring Onion
Strawberry Cake
Tea Cup and Saucer
Tea Pot and Cups
Tomato
Truffles
Wafels
Wedding cake
Yule Log Cake

Halloween Ghosts!

2011-10-28T13:21:00.001+02:00

Simply take some cheesecloth, poure liquid starch in a bucket and drenche the cheesecloth in the starch.

2011-09-05T13:22:00.000+02:00

ORANGE is available!

www.frompolymertoart.com

Enjoy ORANGE!

Happy Claying....!

Brand Comparison by Cara Jane

2011-08-28T16:01:00.001+02:00

Brand Comparison - written by Cara Jane

For years Cara used Fimo polymer clay which is readily available here in the UK. Recently she found Cindy Leitz and having read a lot on her blog and seeing her beautiful colour mixing recipes she decided she ought to try Premo clay. There are some discussions about brands on Cindy's blog here. Being a fan of Donna Kato's work and having her excellent book she decided to try Kato polymer clay at the same time.

Here are some photos and notes about the different brands of polymer clay Cara tried; Kato, Premo, Fimo Soft and Fimo Classic.

First findings:
Kato - Very crumbly as it came out of the packet. Had to work it to warm it up before she was able to run it through the pasta machine. Firm, more difficult to shape. This polymer clay has quite a strong smell.

Premo - Very soft from the packet and was able to put it straight through the pasta machine. Soft to work with.

Fimo Soft (her normal brand) - Soft from the packet was able to put straight through the pasta machine. Very soft to work with.

Fimo Classic - she found this much the same as Fimo soft which surprised het. It wasn't quite as soft when first out of the packet but after being passed through the pasta machine a few times is was just as soft as the Fimo soft.

Flower Cane
First of all she made a Spliced Flower Cane in Blue, White and Green. Cara tried to keep the colours the same as possible but didn't go to great extremes of colour mixing.

Kato, Premo, Fimo soft and Fimo Classic (from left to right)

The top row was a slice cut with a tissue blade just after the cane was finished and the bottom row is the same brands cut after a rest (overnight).

Cara realised that her blade wasn't as sharp as it used to be but this didn't seem to matter for the firmer Kato clay. She is sure she can improve her cane slicing technique (and she have also since bought a new blade). LOL...

Cara can see very clearly that it pays to leave your clay to cool down before slicing what ever brand you use. She knows many people recommend putting it in the fridge for a while - she has to try that.

Wow the difference shocked her - the Kato one (made in exactly the same way) looks very different. Cara accepts there may have been a slightly larger area of white in the middle but even so the definition that the cane retained is far superior.

A closer view of the Premo and the Kato flower cane slices

Geometric Cane

Cara realised that the spliced flower cane wasn't a completely 'repeatable' cane so decided to make a simple geometric cane to see how that turned out.

From left to right Kato, Premo, Fimo Soft and Fimo Classic

Again top row was cut straight away and the bottom row was cut the next day.

As She was making them she thought the fimo looked different but couldn't work out why - hmm she realises now she only did half the job. Not sure what happened to the next day kato sample but needless to say it looked much the same, insignificant deformation.

Although the difference wasn't as marked as the spliced flower cane - Cara still much prefers the results of the Kato. She likes the feel of the baked kato too. The Kato white is more white and she thinks part of this is being firmer it stays cleaner.

A close up of the Kato and Premo canes

Conclusions

As Cara was working the spliced flower canes she thought she would prefer the Premo. She didn't like the work needed to condition the Kato clay and it was much firmer to work with even when thoroughly conditioned. The firmness is sometimes a disadvantage and sometimes an advantage. It was a disadvantage making the splice flower cane in the pinching the sides down. Also squashing the cane stacked quarters into a flat piece was quite physically demanding with the kato clay. At other times the firmness was an asset, cutting the bullseye canes into quarters was easier, less deformation. Things held their shape better and weren't floppy as they were with all the other brands at times. There was much less waste with the Kato et every stage. Even making skinner blends there was less waste from the Kato as it distorted less.

It is very much a personal preference and all sorts of things will effect your choice from where you live (temperature and also she gathers some of the brands have slightly different formations in the states to UK), how you buy your clay (Cara has to buy Kato online, can't get it in any local shops in the UK), the strength of your hands, what you like to make, how you work etc. Also if you don't want to mix colours the Kato range is rather limited.

However after Cara had seen the sliced and baked canes hermind was set - She'll give this Kato clay a go. Cara will probably invest in a little chopper to aid conditioning it isn't something she enjoys but she would say the results make that extra effort worthwhile.

Source: http://www.carajane.co.uk/search/label/Polymer%20Clay%20Brand%20Comparison

Wearables from the Oven

2011-08-26T11:17:00.000+02:00

The Polymer Clay Guild of Minnesota presents the show titled "Wearables from the Oven" at the Textile Center of Minnesota, in the Community Gallery.

3000 University Ave. NE
Minneapolis MN
Date: September 21st to October 24th 2011
Artist's Reception October 11th 5:00pm to 9:00 pm
Treats and Demos by the Artists

http://www.polymerclayguildofmn.org/
http://www.textilecentermn.org/

This collection of works by over 20 members will feature "wearable" art such as jewelry, purses, doll clothes, ties and more, all made of the oven baked clay, polymer clay. A variety of techniques will be featured including millefiore, Mokume Gane, crochet, faux stones and more.

Layl McDill, "Fishy Handbag", polymer clay, wire, beads

Deborah Huchison, Crochet Pendents, Polymer clay, buttons

Mary Holland, "Button Up", fabric, polymer clay

Kim Buell, Necklace, polymer clay, wire,ribbon

Challenge Dutch forum

2011-08-20T16:23:00.001+02:00

At our Dutch forum this month's challenge theme was "Bangle".

This one is made by Ilse and she got the most votes!!

Congratulations Ilse! It's a great bangle!

Paper Flowers, seen on the web

2011-08-15T10:18:00.001+02:00

Japanese Kusudama
Source: http://findinspirations.com/2009/07/handmade/
Anyone can do that, the writer of this post assures you. The proof: she can, just take a quick look at her result below. And, believe her, she is neither meticulous nor particularly patient, so she wrote herself. You could even say she is the opposite.

Below you can see my very first attempt to create paper flowers.

What you will need to make your own Kusudama paper ball?

1. Paper – 60 square pieces of paper, all of the same size. I use advertising catalogues (for your convenience in the first part of this tutorial I use plain blue paper so that the folds are more visible). My squares are 3,5 cm x 3,5 cm but you can make them bigger, smaller squares would be rather hard to fold. For every flower you will need 5 pieces.
2. Ruler
3. Pencil
4. Glue – the glue I use have two nice properties: (1) it does not dry very quickly which allows small corrections when necessary (2) being initially white it turns translucent while drying
5* Scissors (optionally) I prefer torn paper instead of cut. I fold it several times before tearing slowly.
6* Beads (optionally) Use them to add some extra glamour.
7. Toothpick – to apply the glue.

You have to start with a single petal. Don’t give up, it may seem that it will take ages before you make all 60 petals but you will progress faster with every next piece :)

Now you have to glue your 5 petals into a flower.

Apply the glue to only one side of each petal, except for the last one, in this case cover both sides with glue.

Your first flower is done.

Don’t glue every petal right after you make it. Make the whole 60 and then glue them into 12 flowers, it’s really faster this way, believe me.

When all 12 flowers are finished you have to glue them together. You start with gluing the first half – six flowers together. With your first flower you have to apply the glue on two adjacent petals, with five next flowers you apply glue on three adjacent petals. Put the glue not exactly on the middle line of the petal but a little to the right.

When two halves of Kusudama Flower Ball are ready you have to glue them together. You can put a cord between the halves so that your ball can hang down. I make my Kusudama Flower Balls for a table decorations so I don’t put a cord.

Source: http://findinspirations.com/2009/07/handmade/

Seen on the web... more pearlzzzzz....

2011-07-11T20:37:00.001+02:00

Source: http://www.livemaster.ru/topic/68106-zhemchuzhnoe-kole-s-tsvetkom-iz-polimernoj-gliny?msec=2

Seen on the web... pearlzzzz....

2011-07-07T21:43:00.002+02:00

Seen on the web... leaves....

2011-06-30T20:10:00.004+02:00

Source: http://www.livemaster.ru/topic/45998-dekupazh-na-plastike-skeletirovannyh-listev?msec=2

Seen on the web... beautiful flowers...

2011-06-24T20:02:00.002+02:00

Source: http://www.livemaster.ru/

Seen on the web... Mjummie!

2011-06-21T20:02:00.000+02:00

Source: http://www.livemaster.ru/

Seen on the web... snowflake cane tutorial

2011-06-15T12:10:00.002+02:00

Source: http://www.flickr.com/photos/eugenascreations/4198647648/

Seen on the web...Paper Rosie Hair Pin

2011-06-13T12:17:00.000+02:00

I just love the idea of whipping up a bunch of cute hair flowers for my friends for no reason at all, just because it makes them smile! I created this super fun and easy tutorial for the lovely folks over at Crafty Ideas Weekly so you can surprise your friends, party guests or fellow soccer moms with a pretty handmade bloom to brighten their day too. I learned to make these fun little flowers from my mom when I was a little girl and now I'm sharing it with you. Think of all the lovely cardstock papers you could use to make these beauties fit any occasion!

Supplies -

4x4 inch square cardstock

1.5x3 inch patterned green cardstock

bobby pin

glue gun

Matte acrylic spray sealer (I used Krylon,my favorite)

1- gather material

2 - draw a spiral on 4x4 carstock and draw 2 leaf shapes on green cardstock

3 - cut out along lines of spiral starting at the outside point and cut out leaves

4 - begin to tightly roll the spiral working from outside in

5 - keep spiral help tight

6 - let it go to see it uncoil ever so slightly to a natural rose (this always feels like magic for some reason)

7 - hot glue the little nub (it was the very center of your spiral) down to the rolled flower and hold in place for a few seconds

8 - slide bobby pin on to one leaf then place it on top ofthe second leaf and glue to the flower

Spray the entire paper flower and leaves with the sealer let dry 15 minutes and spray again. This makes the bloom waterproof and allows you to wear it again and again.

So sweet!

Source: http://poppychic.blogspot.com/2010/05/paper-rosie-hair-pin-tutorial.html

Seen on the web... Anke's Flower Pins

2011-06-13T12:08:00.000+02:00

For the PDF file:

http://365daysofcrafts.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/Polka-Dot-Flower-Pin-AH2.pdf

Source: http://www.flickr.com/photos/anart-island/

Seen on the web: I like candy!!!

2011-05-27T14:59:00.000+02:00

Looking for the perfect candy heart saying for your sweetheart this Valentine's Day? Don't waste time searching through candy bags! Instead, use polymer clay and image transfers to make your own customized conversation hearts.

Materials

Polymer Clay: Small amounts of several pastel colors. Here's the formulas I used to match the colors of the Necco brand candy hearts. (White refers to a 2:1 mix of Premo white and UltraLight; all other colors are by Premo.)
- Yellow heart: 1 part Cadmium Yellow; 4 parts white
- Orange heart: 1 part Orange; 7 parts white
- Green heart: 1 part Green; 7 parts white
- Pink heart: 1 part Fuchsia; 1/4 part Cadmium Yellow; 5 parts white
- Purple heart: 1 part Purple; 1/2 part UltraMarine Blue; 6 parts white
Tools: Scissors, needle tool or toothpick, stiff-bristled paintbrush, clay knife
Color laser printer or color copier
Rubbing alcohol
Corn starch or baby powder
Candy heart (optional)
Amazing Mold Putty (optional)

Instructions

If you have one of the real candies, you can use this to make a mold (follow my button mold instructions). Note: Mold the blank side of the heart, unless you actually want to copy the texture from the words. Allow the mold to set.
To use the mold, press a 1/4 teaspoon ball of clay into the mold. Use a scraper tool or a clay knife to remove excess clay from the back. Pop the heart out and correct any molding flaws.
Don't want to make a mold? You can easily hand-form the heart based on a real candy heart (or a photo of one).
Use a color laser printer or color copier to print the words you'll transfer onto the hearts. Cut the transfer as close to the letters as possible. Here's a few phrases you can use for your hearts [PDF, JPG].
If you're creating your own transfers, I recommend using the "Stamp Act" font, 8 pt size, with kerning set to 1.5 pt -- you can get this font free from Harold's Fonts. Be sure to select mirror image if you're printing your own.
Lightly press the transfer sheet, printed side down, onto the clay. Don't press down too hard as this will cause a line at the paper's edge.
Use a soft paintbrush to paint a small amount of rubbing alcohol onto the back of the paper. Be careful not to move the paper, since this can cause smudging. Let the alcohol dry completely (til you can no longer see the letters through the paper), then repeat this step twice.
If you prefer, you can leave the transfer sitting overnight instead of using rubbing alcohol.
With the transfer still in place, load a stiff-bristled paintbrush with corn starch or baby powder. Use a pouncing motion to tap the front (around the transfer) and on the sides and back. This leaves a light chalky residue, similar to that on the real candy hearts.
Brush the transfer lightly with rubbing alcohol once more. You should be able to see the letters through the paper. Use a toothpick or needle tool to trace the letters, creating an indentation in the clay. This step often makes it easier to remove the paper as well: as you're tracing the letters, you may see an edge start to stick up. Once you're done tracing, use tweezers or a needle tool to coax the paper up the rest of the way. Your message should be transferred onto the clay.
Be careful not to touch the transferred letters, as the ink is still wet and will easily smear. If you're not in a big hurry, I'd encourage you to let this sit a few hours til the ink dries. That'll help prevent smearing. But if you're in a hurry, continue on and just be really careful not to touch the ink.
There may be a ridge where the edge of the paper was. Decide how much this bothers you. You can use the rounded end of a paintbrush (or a variety of other tools) to help smooth this out -- but be careful not to smear the ink. You can also add some texture and baby powder to this area if it needs it -- but it's much easier to do this if you let the ink dry first.
Once you're happy with the heart, cure it in the oven according to the manufacturer's recommended time and temperature. If desired, use Loctite Super Glue Control Gel to attach earring backs after the clay has cooled.

More Candy Hearts Info

Use these links to find out more about the candy hearts & their history -- plus find sayings to use for your own hearts.

NECCO Sweehearts: Official site from the candy's maker.
History of Candy Hearts: Includes info on how new phrases are selected, plus the new phrase lists for the past few years.

Polymer clay candy hearts are fun & easy to make. Not only that, but the polymer clay version is much more durable than the candies themselves -- perhaps as durable as your love!

Source: http://craftygoat.com/2008/02/say_i_love_you_with_polymer_cl.html

Seen on the web: Tulip by Elena Samsonova

2011-05-23T15:26:00.007+02:00

Source: http://www.shimshoni-gallery.com/site/Shimshoni_Gallery/Tutorials/Pages/Photo_Tutorials.html

2011-05-20T15:13:00.001+02:00

Missus Piggy Music Box has been chosen for inclusion

in the New Book, 'Humor in Craft'!

http://doreengay-kassel.blogspot.com/

Challenge girls next door

2011-05-18T13:07:00.000+02:00

This month the challenge of the forum was Mokume Cane.

Karin got the most votes! Congratulations Karin,

Beautiful peace, perfect for the dress!!!

Seen on the web: Oooooh=-Rings!

2011-05-15T21:03:00.000+02:00

Seen on the web... wauwwwwwww!

2011-05-13T22:43:00.000+02:00

Source: http://bobrotermit.livejournal.com/6933.html

Терпения и творческих успехов всем!

Seen on the web... Second Rainbow...

2011-05-09T22:40:00.001+02:00

Well, if you speak Russian you can make sence of the text... :-)
The photos are so well taken, you can make the story for yourselfes we assumed...

Ничего сложного. Колечко простое, но делается легко и быстро (около 3-х часов). И может стать приятным самодельным подарком для любого близкого вам человека.

Набираем кусочки нужного нам цвета. Я выбрал, как обычно, яркие. Придаём им форму, позволяющую совместить вместе.

Скатываем в колбасу, режим на «блины» (в моём случае чуть больше 1 см в высоту, запас пригодится при дальнейшей обточке изделия). Продавливаем нужный внутренний диаметр кольца.

Запекаем. Отрезаем, вырезаем всё лишнее. Крупной наждачной бумагой придаём форму.

Высверливаем в каждом цвете дырочки. Счастливым обладателям минидрелей это минутное дело.

Получившиеся дырочки затыкае пластиком, который будет окантовкой для цвета-наполнителя. Запекаем отрезаем лишнее, шлифуем.

И снова высверливаем. Затыкаем отверстия уже основным цветом.

Шлифуем.

Лакируем. Сушим.

Носим тем цветом, который нравится =)

Опережу вопрос про отсутствие металлической основы в кольце. Вот в этом кольце продолжительное время водят машину и иногда носят сумки и пакеты. Немного ободрался лак снизу. Трещин и других повреждений не наблюдается.

Ура весне и подаркам! Всем замечательного настроения и весёлых праздников!

Seen on the web: Hot & wet summer Ring!!

2011-05-09T22:32:00.004+02:00

Found on the web for you... (google translated!!!)

The manufacture of the ring has spent about 2 hours. And just because he had done it the first time, to the touch, not having formed an idea completely. But like happened.

Make a rainbow!

Take the ring of their own or the one who makes a gift, and presses to the base, to print a trace. Now our finger would penetrate no soap in the finished ornament.

Natsarapyvaem around the outer circumference of the ring. Do it with a reserve. Unnecessary can always be cut down.

Bake, cut off excess.

Pick out the interior. It's not that hard. Just take care of your fingers. Why do you ring if your fingers are not going to happen?

Minidrelyu with a special attachment lines the inside of the ring. Who does not have a typewriter - sympathize. Wound on a pencil sandpaper and suffering.

Gives shape to the ring.

Bring to mind.

That's where I realized my mistake. As far as I complicate my life. Hat ring could soon form in the original piece of plastic, and get results much faster. But there is no turning back, and I continue.

Grind the edges of the cap and caulk the gap.

Dopekaem plastic that was in the crevices, process sandpaper.

Varnishing.

Done!

Ring without a metal base. Wearing neatly. All with the first day of autumn! And a good light mood!

Source: http://bobrotermit.livejournal.com/8830.html

Seed Beads Bracelet...

2011-03-12T11:42:00.003+01:00

Besides polymer art, we love seed beads...

Great tuto from Jellina! http://www.jellina-creations.nl/tutorials1.html

Buttons...

2011-03-12T11:35:00.002+01:00

Don't you just love these buttons?!

Handmade by Jellina!

http://www.jellina-creations.nl

Seen on the web... pearlzzzzz....

2011-03-07T20:12:00.001+01:00

Source: http://www.livemaster.ru/topic/45361-zhatyj-kulon-iz-plastiki?msec=2

Seen on the web... Filigree Egg

2011-02-15T22:56:00.000+01:00

Blended Filigree Egg
by Kellie Prather Robinson

Materials Needed:
One blown out egg
Glass sead beads, or uncooked rice
Pasta machine
Scrap clay
1 block of Premo Gold
1/4 block of Premo Blue Pearl
1/2 block of Premo Copper
Needle tool
Tissue blade
Clay gun with 7-hole spaghetti disk
Clay gun pusher
Wet/dry sandpaper in 400, 600, 800, 1000 and 1500 grit
Old soft toothbrush
Soft paintbrush or sponge paint applicator
Future acrylic floor finish
Step 1: Poke some seed beads or rice into the egg using the blow holes. Condition the scrap clay and roll out a medium thick sheet using the pasta machine. Cover the egg with a sheet of scrap clay. Take darts in the clay to remove excess. Blend the seams together to get an even covering of clay over the egg.
Step 2: Blend 1/4 block of Blue pearl clay with 1/2 block of Gold. Blend until you have a nice green pearl color. Condition your Copper clay, and the other 1/2 block of Gold. Roll each color into a log about the diameter of your clay gun. Cut off 1/8th inch slices from each log of color.
Step 3: Stack your slices of clay into a log about the length of your clay gun. Roll and compress this stacked log to remove air bubbles.

Step 4: Load your striped log into your clay gun and extrude long strands of clay using your clay gun pusher. Slice off your strands and get ready to filigree!
Step 5: Coil strands of clay in your fingers, and apply to the egg (below left). Surround the coils with additional strands of clay (below right). Handle your egg gently, so you don't mush any of the filigree that has already been applied.
Step 6: Fill in any left over spaces with balls of your scrap filigree clay. Poke indentations into these balls of clay with your needle tool (below left). Randomly apply a coin edge to some of your strands with your needle tool (below right).

Step 7: Bake at the manufacturer's recommended time and temperature. You can stop now and enjoy your egg as it is. Here is how it looks without sanding.
Step 8: Or you can sand your egg, and really bring out the colors in your filigree. Start with 400 grit, and slowly work your way up to 1500 grit. Do not oversand! You don't want to loose all the detail on your egg! Under running water, use toothbrush to remove any clay particles that have settled into the grooves of your filigree. Allow to dry, and apply one or two coats of Future.

Source: http://www.polymerclaycentral.com/index.html

Seen on the web... Skinner Blended Flower Cane

2011-02-10T22:46:00.000+01:00

The Skinner Blend Part
The first photo shows my skinner blend. I've simply laid a bunch of coloured clay onto a pearl/white mix sheet. Both the layers and the sheet are a medium thickness and the sheet is the width of the pasta machine. I didn't do anything in terms of planning the colours other than to make sure that I had stripes in different locations of the colours that I wanted. You can also see that I didn't worry about making nice even triangles or any sort of precision. These colours were bits that I had laying around that weren't enough to do really anything else with.

The resultant blend is what I call a skinny skinner blend. Roll the blend up and compress it into a flat plug that's at least as large as your cookie cutter. Don't worry about precision here. I like to start with canes that are about 1-2 inches tall so that's how short my plug is. With cookie cutter canes and complex shapes you really don't want it a lot taller than the cookie cutter since you'll have to continue to push the cutter through the clay.

To do it again I would leave more white. Try to get a good mix of light and dark.

The Cutting Out and Assembling Part
Now you're ready to start making the flower. I've started the imprint of the cookie cutter which allows me to cut my centre line. Cut the plug in half. This allows you to more easily remove the clay that's on the inside of the cookie cutter. This part can be a bit fiddly.

Once the two halves have been cut you can start to add detail to the petals and the centre. I simply sliced the cane into the petal shapes and then took out a bit in the centre. It's easier to remove the centre portion petal by petal. You can see how I've done it in the third set of pictures.

After I finished the detail I really wrestled with whether the white centre was too much. I was tempted to start the centre again and add something in the very centre, at least another dot of colour so that there wasn't too much white. But I got lazy and didn't want to do that. I probably should have.

Also, if you want, you can flip flop alternating petals to give it more interest. So, petal 1 would show the topside of the cane. Petal 2 would be taken out, flipped and then placed back into the cane. If one end of your plug was blue and the other pink, then petal 2 would be pink on top. Petal 3 would be blue, petal 4 would be pink, etc. I didn't do it in this example because both ends of my cane happened to be blue and you wouldn't have seen the difference.

The Packing Part

Now it's time for the packing. I'm a lazy packer. I hate packing. So if there's an easier way to do it, I'm in. With cookie cutter canes packing is wonderful because you use the outside of the cookie cutter shape. I've used translucent in this example but I could just have easily used white or some other colour. A pale yellow probably would have been nice.

Layer your translucent into about four thicknesses thick. Cut it into a squarish shape that's big enough to surround your cane with as much border as you want of translucent. I don't tend to like a lot of border.

Press the cookie cutter into the block and remove the outside portion. It's much easier if you cut a notch into the clay (image on the top left) and peel the clay away from the outside edge. Take this peeled portion and wrap it around the flower. This is so much easier when you're wrapping vs trying to fit the flower into the cutout. Repeat the process until the flower is surrounded.

The Reducing and Final Product Part
Now you're ready to reduce. One of the reasons I like using a square shape for wrapping is that I find reducing squares easier than round shapes. I can keep things in line better. And with translucent if I'm stacking the canes they fit together easier.

You can see the final product here with the different variations. I probably have too much dark blue and not enough of the lighter colours. I also really should have put another colour in the very centre just for interest. And the petal separators extend too far out and are too thick.
But I'll be able to use the cane in Bottles of Hope and it serves as a general idea for those that are reading.

I'm sometimes not quite happy with my canes until I put them onto whatever I'm doing. I suspect it'll be the case with these. It's a bit of a trial and error process.
You can also do different shapes - the hearts were a great hit at Morrisburg. Happy faces are just about the easiest thing to create as well. Stars in different colours would also work.

Source: http://blog.simple-inspirations.com/

Seen on the web... Mica Shift Box

2011-02-04T23:21:00.001+01:00

Mica Shift Trinket Box

By Jennifer Bezingue

This Trinket Box is a lovely addition to any room in your home. The mica shift technique makes it a very special conversation piece.

Getting Started

Preheat oven to 275 °F. Test temperature with oven thermometer for perfectly cured clay. Condition all clay by kneading until it’s soft and smooth or running it through the Clay Conditioning Machine for several passes on the widest setting. Fold the clay in half after each pass and insert the fold side into the rollers first.

Step 1, Preparing the Armature

Cut length of cardboard tube about 2" high. Wrap with deli paper or computer paper (not waxed paper). Secure paper on the inside of the tube with masking tape.

Step 2, Mica Shift Pattern Sheet Technique Description

Dust clay surface with cornstarch to prevent sticking. Texture clay by pressing with rubber stamps, acrylic texture plates, or other texture tools; press into only about 1/4 of the thickness of the clay. Lay textured sheet on work surface with one edge overlapping a sheet of deli wrap. Hold the Super Slicer flexible blade by each short edge with the sharp side facing toward you. Move your hands toward each other to flex the blade in a wide "U" shape. Use this curved blade to scrape away the textured surface of the clay, shaving off a little bit of the surface at a time. For best results, hold the bottom edge of the blade parallel to the surface of the clay, and scrape off small pieces with each cut. Keep the blade clean by putting the scrapings in a heap to the side of your sheet, and by periodically cleaning the blade with the alcohol swabs. When most of the texture has been scraped away, run the sheet through the Clay Conditioning Machine on successively thinner settings just until the surface is smooth, or roll with acrylic roller. Lay this patterned sheet on top of another layer of clay (preferably the same color) that was rolled at the thickest setting on the pasta machine. Using acrylic roller, press both sheets together, taking care not to allow any air bubbles between the sheets.

Step 3, Baking Procedure

The box is baked several times throughout the construction. At each step, bake at 275˚F for 30 minutes. You can work on the next step while the box is baking to save time.

Step 4, Box Base, Inside Wall

Slice 8 oz. Pearl clay with Super Slicer rigid blade. Condition clay, adding small amounts of Zinc Yellow clay, Green Pearl clay, and Brilliant Yellow mica powder to make a bright green color. Roll out clay to widest setting on the Clay Conditioning Machine, about 3" wide and 10" long. Use the mica shift technique to create a 3" x 10" patterned sheet. Trim one long edge, and measure up 2" and trim the other long edge. Curve this sheet around the paper-covered cardboard tube, pattern side in. Overlap the short edges, trim, and smudge the seam together. Bake. While baked clay is still warm, carefully remove armature. Sand outside and bottom edge with coarse sandpaper.

Step 5, Inside Bottom

Make a 3" x 3" mica shift patterned sheet with Bright Green clay. With roller, adhere patterned sheet to baking surface. Apply Bake & Bond to bottom edge of inside box wall, and press wall firmly into raw clay. Trim around bottom edge with craft knife. Bake. Allow to cool completely before removing from the baking surface.

Step 6, Box Exterior

Using Super Slicer rigid blade, slice 8 oz. Pearl clay and condition with Duo Blue-Green mica powder until a bright blue color is achieved. Roll a sheet that is large enough to cover the exterior of the box, and pattern it with the mica shift technique. If desired, use small round cutters to remove pieces of Blue clay, cut out pieces of Green clay with the same cutter, and insert Green circles into Blue holes. Add a thin film of Bake & Bond to the sanded exterior of the box, place clay on outside of box, patterned side out, and trim. Bake.

Step 7, Feet

Sand box bottom where feet will be attached with coarse sandpaper. Make 3 feet from same-size balls of clay. Position the feet on the baking surface, add a drop of Bake & Bond to the top of each foot, and press the box top onto the feet. Bake.

Step 8, Lid, Base

Roll a double thickness of clay and use Acrylic Roller to adhere to the baking surface, and cut with round cutter (or any shape you want) slightly bigger than the diameter of the box base. Bake.

Step 9, Lid Inset

Sand the center of the inside of the lid with coarse sandpaper, add a film of Bake & Bond to the sanded area, and add a double-thickness of clay to the center of the lid (you want to see the edges of the lid). Press the top of the box bottom into the raw clay to make a pattern. Trim inside the impressed edge and remove all excess clay. Smooth the inset and bake.

Step 10, Decoration

Decorate the box lid with more layers of clay, baking between steps as desired. Make a round ball for the lid handle; shave off one side, apply Bake & Bond, and bake.

Seen on the web... washi paper bracelet

2011-01-28T13:56:00.000+01:00

Washi Paper and Clay Bracelets

by syndee holt

This document is also available in printer friendly PDF format:
proj0028.pdf

The holidays are filled with lovely papers—why not use some of these papers to create a wonderful bracelet? The new Pearl Ex Varnish will protect your most delicate papers.

Materials:

Jacquard Pearl Ex Stamp Pad - Gold
Jacquard Pearl Ex Varnish
5 oz Premo! Sculpey polymer clay—Gold or color of your choice
Premo! Sculpey clay—2 oz of Ecru (or White)
Yasutomo Yuzen Washi Origami Paper in 5" size papers
Clay dedicated pasta machine
2 Bamboo Skewers
1 mm Stretch Magic Jewelry Elastic—2 14" pieces
Crafter’s Pick “Ultimate” glue
Small brush to apply the varnish
PolyTools beveled cutter—I use the 1" square or “H” cutter
Sculpey Super Slicer blade
Needle tool—I use a Poultry needle from the cooking section of the grocery
Heat Gun (optional)

Directions

Cut out 8 squares of the Washi paper, selecting the most interesting areas of pattern. As you can see, I’ve cut a pattern out of another paper to use as a guide. My pattern is just slightly smaller than 1" square (.8" square).
Slice your clay into sheets just slightly thicker than the widest setting on your pasta machine and roll through the machine a couple of times to condition the clay and turn the mica so the surface is bright golden. Create 3 large sheets of clay.
Roll one of the sheets on a thinner setting, about 3 settings down from your widest setting. Glue a piece of the Washi paper to this sheet. Trim to about 1/4" selvage on all sides.
Manipulate one of your other sheets of clay through the pasta machine to make it long and narrow. This will form the base of the bracelet. Position your bamboo skewers about 1/2" apart on the clay and press them down using the bottom of the glue bottle. Remove the skewers. You should have two even channels in the clay now.
Set the trimmed piece of clay with the Washi paper on the channeled clay sheet, centering the Washi paper on the channels. Trim to the clay that the Washi paper is mounted on. Set aside.
Use your cutter on the final remaining piece of clay to cut out a square. Trim this piece to at least 3/8" selvage around the square.
Align this piece of clay over the Washi paper assembly.
Use your Super Slicer blade to trim the edges of the frame. I found that cutting closer is easier than trying to leave a large border.
Measure each bead against each other to maintain a matching size.
Recheck your channels by running the needle tool through each channel.
Repeat this process for each of your beads. I use 8 beads on a bracelet. You may wish to add more or less.
Place the beads on a sheet of unlined paper on your baking sheet and bake the beads in a preheated oven at 275° for 25 minutes. Allow the beads to cool before continuing.
Rub the sides of each of the beads and the top of the frame on a Gold Pearl Ex Stamp Pad. This will add golden highlights that echo the gold in the Washi paper. (This ink is water soluble, but I wear gloves to keep the ink from my hands during my photography design sessions.) Allow the ink to air dry or heat set it with a heat gun for a few moments. You can even put the beads back into the warm oven for 5-10 minutes to set the ink.
Seal the clay and the paper with the Pearl Ex Varnish. Heat set the varnish with either the heat gun or the warm oven. The varnish will dry in just seconds with a heat gun!
Align the beads and string through the top channel of the beads. Cut the elastic, leaving 3" on each end of the beads. Flip each bead up from the bottom and thread the elastic through the bottom channel. Cut the elastic leaving the 3" selvage.
Gather up the ends of the elastic and tie a double knot in each set of elastic for the top and bottom channels. Once the knot is tied, gently but firmly pull on each end of the elastic to tighten the knot. Trim the knot, leaving a small selvage of about 1/4".

Source: http://www.jacquardproducts.com/

Seen on the web... Mold-n-Pour...

2011-01-26T11:22:00.000+01:00

...The first thing to do is to make a little glob of each color, the same size, with each glob being about half the size of your item. (Thus, when mixed, it is the size of your item...I always go a tad bigger.) Then gently mix the two colors together, not crazy rubbing, just gently mixing, until you get all the same, light purple color. (pictures 1, 2, 3)

I took a bird charm, and pressed the bird charm into the ball of mold-n-pour, nice and deeply, and drew the purple stuff up around the edges to form walls...you will want the bottom to be flat so the heated liquid doesn't go anywhere...usually I will make it on the back of a wood stamp, so I can set it aside for the seven minutes it usually takes to cure. You can tell it is done if you press your fingernail into the side and it doesn't leave a permanent impression. See the next three photos.

While it is curing, this is a good time to get out your melting pot, and, for this silver bird, I am using the platinum Ultra-Thick Embossing Enamel (now to be known as UTEE). Place it in the melting pot, at the highest temperature, and see it melt, as in the photos below. Once it is liquid, carefully pour into the mold. The pan itself is hot--be sure to be safe and use the handles on the outer edges. Let this sit until is is really set. Do NOT touch it with your fingers to test it...it could burn. Setting will take a minute or so...it always depends on the thickness of the item. The mold is rubbery, so it pulls away from the new charm easily, and the charm pops out, and is now fairly flat on the bottom, so it can be glued onto a project very easily.

The platinum UTEE makes a duller silver than I wanted, so I added a bit of Viva InkaGold in silver ---it just rubs on. The difference can be seen in the two photos.

I went on to play some more, now with the numerals from the metal number set. Make the mold, pour, in this case, white UTEE in. UTEE can be brittle, so for thinner pieces you can add a product called UTEE Flex (directions on jar.) When you remove the items from the mold, it is still possible to trim off unwanted pieces on the edges.

Go play!...

Source: http://www.absolutelyeverythingblog.blogspot.com/

Organics - Jana Roberts Benzon - 17 & 18 September 2011 - The Netherlands

2011-01-25T17:12:00.005+01:00

And if one workshop organised by the Dutch Polymer Art Guid isn't enough... a second workshop will be given by Jana Roberts Benzon!!! Also this September!!!!
"Organics" Workshop
17 & 18 September 2011 - Houten - The Netherlands

Join Jana for two days spent ‘going with the flow’ as we learn to create ethereal, magical “Organic Sculpture” pieces, with their delicate black ‘outlining’ – this eye-catching, mesmerizing feature helps give these creations their distinguishing look. This workshop has a wonderful mix of technical instruction and ‘free-form’ time; we’ll learn how to create glittering Sea Shell beads, incorporating many of the basic skills for creating Organics with a beautiful, sparkling exterior. We’ll also learn to create a Sea Sculpture Brooch with its rough, crustacean-like exterior, and then the Seahorse Pendant with the beautiful (and mystifying!) “Netting” technique that adorns its outer shell. If time, we’ll also learn how to make a “Crumpled Brooch”, one of Jana’s favorites. You’ll learn the basics of Organics, several interesting shapes and designs, along with several new surface techniques in this workshop…
This Master Workshop is full of free-form fun, relaxed “in the zone” creating time, and also filled with so much new and innovative polymer information – you’ll leave feeling like your head is going to explode – in a good (organic) way!!
See more Organics examples at Jana’s website: http://www.janarobertsbenzon.com/

Costs for this 2 day workshop: 170 euro incl. lunch

Limited places left!
For more info: info@dutchpolymerartguild.nl

Laser Cut Workshop - Jana Roberts Benzon - 10 & 11 September - The Netherlands

2011-01-25T17:04:00.004+01:00

Proud to announce... an international workshop organised by the Dutch Polymer Art Guild!
“Laser Cut” Technique and Pendant Workshop by Jana Roberts Benzon.
10 and 11 September 2011 - Houten - The Netherlands

The term “Laser Cut” describes the visual effect of this eye-catching technique, with its precise angled cuts, which reveal intricate, delicate designs; there isn’t actually a Laser involved, so no worries that you’ll need to purchase a new tool to add to your polymer clay tool arsenal.
Come join me for two days filled with ‘out of the box’ polymer education, plus fun, relaxation and laughs. There are so many interesting, unique and exciting patterns and components that can be created using my Laser Cut technique. During our workshop, we’ll spend the first day, and part of day two, exploring some of the different ways to create these Laser Cut components…..you’ll have plenty of personal time to experiment and relax into that wonderful “polymer creating zone” (you know, the one where the world falls away J). Then, (on day two), with your newly created Laser Cut components, you’ll fashion a beautiful pendant (or two, plus earrings and more if there is time).
My workshops are always filled to the brim with original, innovative and (as mentioned) “out of the box” skills (ones that encompass all of polymer, and not just the “Laser Cut” technique) – your creative self will be overflowing with new, exciting ideas and ways of creating! I so look forward to our time together, and am confident that you will treasure the “moment out of time” weekend we’ll have!!
To see more Laser Cut examples, visit the “Archive : Laser Cut” page on my website (www.janarobertsbenzon.com)

Costs for this 2 day workshop: 170 euro incl. lunch

Limited places left!
For more info: info@dutchpolymerartguild.nl

Workshop Donna Kato 02.-03. April 2011 Liechtenstein

2011-01-24T16:37:00.001+01:00

Country: Liechtenstein
City: Vaduz
Place: Princely House
Date: 2 April, 2011

Costs: 330,-Swiss Franks, incl. per day 2 break snacks (café, tea, juice and fruits) and Kato Clay. Not incl. is accommodation and dinner and lunch.
Saturday & Sunday:
09.00 – 12.00 First Part
12.00 - 13.00 Break for lunch
13.00 – 17.00 Second Part

For more information: sabinebacker@bluewin.ch

Apple earrings... myummie... seen on the web

2011-01-20T13:54:00.000+01:00

Source: http://www.flickr.com/photos/yummykupedesign/

Seen on the web... swirled pendant

2011-01-18T13:35:00.000+01:00

Here's a great new take on the ever-popular swirly by Anna Anpilogova! Follow her excellent directions
and you'll have beautiful new bead patterns, like the ones below, to work with!

Since the final effect is a combination of swirled patterns, you first need to plan the overall pattern. I used simple graphic software to create and color the pattern, or you may just draw it on paper. Note that the pattern can involve items where colors are placed differently – in my example we’ll need a total of 12 items with 3 different types of color combinations - 6 items of type 1 as shown at the right, 3 of type 2, and 3 of type 3

Step 1) Select 3 colors of polymer clay, equal parts. Roll each into a log – this will facilitate further dividing into equal-sized items.	Step 2) Cut each log into 4 equal parts and make 4 same size balls of each color. You can certainly use other ways to get equal or nearly equal sized balls.	Step 3) Cut each ball into 6 equal sectors as shown.	Steps 4 , 5) Combine the color sectors back into balls that represent the combinations needed for the patterns.
Step 6) We're now going to turn each ball into a lentil swirled bead. If you don’t know this technique, you can use this excellent tutorial by Desiree to make the lentils.	Step 7) Now arrange the lentil beads according with the overall pattern, checking that you've got all the color combinations right. If not, make additional beads and replace wrong ones. Compress the individual pieces together to form one large lentil bead.	Step 8) As an added thought - since the individual lentil swirl beads have the swirl pattern on both sides, you can make two pendants by cutting each individual bead in two halves before combining them into the pattern.	Steps 9, 10) Compress the items by flattening gently with your fingers and with a roller. Use a cutter around the edge to get a nice, round form. Here they are, ready for baking!

Step 11) I love convex pendants, so I formed these on some old light-bulbs!

Step 12) Bake in accordance with the clay manufacturer's instructions, sand, buff and glaze.

Mixing the different swirled patterns can give you some beautiful pendants. Here are some more examples of utilizing swirled patterns. Click the picture for a larger view.

by Anna Anpilogova
©2010 Text and Photos

Source: http://www.polymerclaycentral.com/

Seen on the web... Mokume Gane

2011-01-15T13:27:00.000+01:00

Mokume Gane using Rubberstamps and Premo! Clay

By Barbara McGuire and Nan Roche

Getting Started:

Step 1

Condition each color of clay and roll out onto a #4 setting on Clay Conditioning Machine or roughly 1/16" thick.

Step 2

Stack colors with Copper on bottom, Black in the middle, Silver on top. Press sheets together.

Step 3

Roll entire sheet through Clay Conditioning Machine on a #1 setting. Cut stack in half and stack again.

Step 4

Roll re-assembled sheet through on a #1 setting.

Step 5

Mist rubber stamp with a fine mist of water. Press design deeply into stack of clay, exerting even force. Remove stamp.

Step 6

Adhere stack of clay to a ceramic tile or sheet of glass so that it doesn't easily move.

Step 7

Your stamped design has high and low spots. You want to shave off the high spots with your Super Slicer. Hold each end of the blade and shave horizontally. Take your time.

Source: http://www.sculpey.com/

Seen on the web... geometric fish cane

2011-01-10T13:17:00.002+01:00

Amazing!!!!!!! We wanted to share this great tutorial with our readers!

How to make a geometric fish cane

I've been wanting to produce this tute for a long time. It's a trubute to Steve Wood, my first real polymer clay instructor. It's true what they say, you never forget your first! ;-) I think this fish cane was the first project I created via a Steve Wood workshop he taught at Global Beads in 1992 in a bead store in Mountain View, CA. I'd like to say exactly what we did in the workshop, for accuracy sake. But my memory isn't what is used to be. I do know the finished cane was an equilateral triangle created from several simple canes. I do remember we didn't use pasta machines, no color gradient sheets produced by using them. A supply list was simple, the load was light - a few blocks of clay, a tissue blade, a sprinkle of magic. And an equilateral triangle lets you arrange six canes together to form a hexagonal cane (aka kaleidoscope style), you can create an awesome patterned cane suitable for so much fun.

I've been wanting to produce this tute for a long time. It's a trubute to Steve Wood, my first real polymer clay instructor. It's true what they say, you never forget your first! ;-)

I think this fish cane was the first project I created via a Steve Wood workshop he taught at Global Beads in 1992 in a bead store in Mountain View, CA.

I'd like to say exactly what we did in the workshop, for accuracy sake. But my memory isn't what is used to be. I do know the finished cane was an equilateral triangle created from several simple canes. I do remember we didn't use pasta machines, no color gradient sheets produced by using them. A supply list was simple, the load was light - a few blocks of clay, a tissue blade, a sprinkle of magic.

And an equilateral triangle lets you arrange six canes together to form a hexagonal cane (aka kaleidoscope style), you can create an awesome patterned cane suitable for so much fun.

Supplies

polymer clay; black and red
tissue blade
pasta machine
ruler

To produce the geometric fish cane, you will need to make a collection of smaller canes that fit together to form a triangle. Once you start following the steps below, the outline template to the right may help you understand how they will go together.

Click this link or the template image to view several sized templates to use.

Steps
1)	Fins After conditioning all your clay, roll out the following sheets red sheet, approximately 12" long, 2.5" wide; widest setting on your pasta machine (e.g. #1 on an Atlas) another red sheet, same as above black sheet, approximately 12" long, 2.5" wide; a thin setting on your pasta machine (e.g. #5 on an Atlas) Stack the sheets; roll the stacked sheet through the pasta machine on the widest setting. Cut the sheet into 1" wide segments.

2)	Compress one side of each stack to form triangular canes. Join the two stacks as shown. Finesse your fin cane so that it's about 2.5" tall, about 1.5" wide and a minimum of 3" long. Measure about 1" width for the pinched side and cut away that much. The larger part of the striped cane will be the tail fin. The cutaway part will be used for the top and bottom fins. Shape the cutaway cane into an equilateral triangle and reduce the cane until you have at least enough for two 3" long canes that can fit into the appropriate locations in the template.

3)	Scales Make a radial gradient cane; from red inner to outer black from a 5" x 4" red sheet and a 5" x 4" black sheet each as thick as allowed when rolled through the thickest setting on your pasta machine. Reduce the cane until it's between 3/8th" - 1/2" in diameter. Cut 12 1.75" long segments. Cut canes in half, lengthwise. Now you should have 24 half circular canes. Set one aside, since you will only need 23. If you arrange them as shown (7 staggered rows; 2-3-4-5-4-3-2) there would be lots of gaps. Before pressing all the canes together, let's fill in those gaps.
4)	Roll small diameter logs by hand or extrude small red triangular strips; enough to fill in the gaps between all your half circular cane segments. Build the 7 layers then assemble them to form one roughly 6-sided cane. Reduce the cane until it can fit within the template and is a minimum of 3" long.

5)	Fish Head "Fish heads, fish heads, roly poly fish heads. Fish heads, fish heads, eat them up. Yum!" Form a small bullseye cane with a black core, a very thick white wrap, then finish with a thin black outer wrap. That's your fish eye cane. Its final dimension - approximately 1/4" in diameter, 1.5" in length. Form a red triangular cane; dimensions - approximately 1.5" long with each side about 1" wide (3" circumference). Cut out a channel in the red triangular cane to insert the eye cane. Fill in the remaining space in the red clay you had removed. Smooth the cane to get it back into a nice triangular shape. Now you have a fish head cane.
6)	Reduce the cane until it can fit into its location in the template and is a minimum of 3" in length. Or before reducing, for a bit more personality for your fish, you can cut into the cane to insert a thin strip of black for a mouth. Then reduce that cane.

7)	Assembly Now you have a tail cane, fins canes, a scales cane, a head cane. Create the two gap canes, the ones that fill in the gaps between the tail fin and the top and bottom fins (shown here as black triangular canes). Use the outline template to size your gap canes accordingly. It's best to let all the canes rest for a few hours to a day before assembling them. Finesse the cane shapes, if needed, and trim or stretch so all of the canes are the same length. Assemble your canes to form the fish cane.

8)	If you're planning on a single fish cane, reduce the cane just enough to make sure all the separate canes are pushed together well enough to stick. Cane slices can become beads themselves, used to decorate bead bases or decorate surfaces.
9)	If you're planning on making a kaleidoscope version of your fish cane, you will need to reduce the cane until there's enough to cut the cane into at least 6 same length segments. You can arrange those smaller canes a couple of ways. Once you find an arragement you like, press them together to create a nice complex cane.



	Larger views of the two kaleidoscopes fish canes so you can see more details.

Source: http://desiredcreations.com/

Seen on the web... Knitting...

2011-01-08T09:31:00.000+01:00

use a clay extruder gun to get even strands in your chosen colour.
lay two strands as shown below

gently twist the strands. the tighter the twists the tighter the 'stitches'. twists the strands in opposite directions.

place the strands side by side matching twists to create stitches.

repeat to create the desired number of strands. place two sets of strands side by side matching the twists.

once the knit is the desired length i weave a few strands at the bottom to neaten it. either then tim or leave strands to create tassles as for the scarf.

this is why you need to leave a loop at the top. thread a cocktail stick through each loop making sure each twists in the same direction

shape and bake .
trim one end of the cocktail stick. you can either do this before baking and add a ball of clay to the end to make the needle or tightly wedge/glue a bead after baking.

Thanks Claire Wallis for this tutorial!
Source: http://www.craftster.org/forum/

Seen on the web... Faux Agate

2011-01-06T09:29:00.000+01:00

Tuto - Agathe

Prenez un rectangle de pâte polymère translucide (plus grosse épaisseur) et versez du sable synthétique blanc/translucide* sur un des bords de haut en bas. Ensuite enrouler le rectangle pour former un boudin bien serré. Assurez-vous que le sable soit bien emprisonné dans le boudin.

*le sable synthétique s’achète en pot ou bouteille dans des magasins pour «la maison » - au rayon déco/bougies.

Découpez 3 rectangles de pâte polymère translucide (plus grosse épaisseur) et incorporez-y 3 petites boules de Fimo de couleur différentes. (Les tailles peuvent varier selon l’intensité de la couleur désirée, mais si vous en mettez trop vous perdrez la translucidité.)

Enroulez vos rectangles sur le boudin translucide (voir photo) afin de former une canne cible. Ensuite avec la même couleur que la dernière couche, faites 3 fins boudins, de tailles différentes, et espacez-les sur la canne sur toute la longueur.

Aplatissez les boudins sur la canne et recouvrez le tout d’un rectangle de Fimo de couleur (fine épaisseur).

Renouvelez ces opérations autant de fois que vous le désirez afin d’obtenir le plus de couches possibles (d’épaisseurs différentes) en alternant entre quelques couches de pâte translucide colorées, de la pâte Fimo de couleur normale. (Sans oublier de temps à autres de mettre de fins boudins sur la longueur de la canne afin de la rendre moins géométrique.) Finissez par une dernière couche (moyenne épaisseur) de pâte translucide non colorée.

Coupez une tranche de canne, de l’épaisseur de votre choix, et donnez-lui la forme d’une Agathe. Ensuite à l’aide d’un bâtonnet ou autres outils de modelage, donnez aux bords des aspérités et des minis entailles de façon à la rendre plus naturelle.

Une fois cette étape accomplie, mettez délicatement du sable synthétique tout autour de votre Agathe (sans en mettre dessus) Pressez le sable sur les bords pour que celui-ci y adhère bien. Ensuite, enlevez l’excédent de sable et mettez le tout au four. (Suivez les instructions de cuisson de votre pâte polymère)

Une fois la cuisson finie, mettez l’Agathe dans un petit récipient en plastique et placez le dans le congélateur pour qu’il refroidisse et pour faire ressortir la translucidité. (Environ 15 minutes) Surtout ne mettez pas l’Agathe dans de l’eau glacée, car le sable se décollerait de l’Agathe.

Pour finir il ne vous reste plus qu’a vernir votre fausse Agathe…et voilà le résultat…en deux tons différents !

Source: http://creationmyway.canalblog.com/

Seen on Flickr... Ammonite Bangle

2011-01-05T08:55:00.001+01:00

Step 1
take one premade bangle. because you wont be able to do much in the way of sanding after you have finished the bangle (pendant etc..) should be sanded to a high finished (dont bother buffing and definitely no polish) in this case i carved a basic out line into the bangle with a scribing tool (you could also use a thick needle or even the back edge of a craft knife but the scribing tool is easier particularly for somthing like this with a curved surface)i found with carving making a light and shallow line then deepening it with successive strokes was better than trying to create a deeply carved line in one stroke. particularly where accuracy is an issue
once you have carved your design take some well condition and softened clay (in this case i used black) using the back of a craft knife push the clay into the grooves and lines of the carving (think grouting tiles)remove excess clay. (here you can see the carved and filled outline of the ammonite and the section i have started to 'fill in'...i'l get to that in a moment)

Step 2
next take a little more of the softened clay and working in the direction you will be scraping (ie if for example you are recreating hair you would want to scrape following the lines of the hair.) begin to scrape the clay over the surface of the bangle...kinda like buttering bread
(here i have spread the clay over the lower part of the design)

Step 3

now take you craft knife and (gently!) begin to remove the colour you have just applied

Step 4
once you have finished the design the bangle can be baked and sanded just sand any marks for example black finger prints..do NOT sand the design.on items that receive more wear and tear for example bangles you may want to coat the area of the design in a thin layer of translucent or liquid clay for durability, items such as a pendant can simply be given a coat of varnish.

All credits to Claire Wallis!

Source: http://www.flickr.com/photos/51136446@N06/

Seen on the web... Leafsssssss

2011-01-04T13:29:00.000+01:00

Bronze Verdigris Leaf Necklace

A small heart cutter makes a wonderful leaf – add some textures and colors and nature really gets interesting!!

Step 1

Roll half of the the Premo! Sculpey Copper clay through the Clay Conditioning Machine on the widest setting (#1) about 3-4 times to condition it and make the clay more pliable. Place the sheet of clay on an index card or sheet of plain white paper and place the paper on a hard surface floor.

Step 2

Lightly spray the large texture stamp with water (water acts as a mold release so that the stamp won't stick to the clay) and place the stamp on top of the clay. Now step directly on the top of the stamp. I walk around the sheet of paper and step on the stamp from all four directions. This will ensure an even, deep embossing of the texture.

Step 3

Use the heart cutter to cut out as many hearts as possible from the textured clay. Look for interesting patterns created by the textured clay and the cutter. If necessary, repeat steps 1-3 until you have 9 heart/leaves.

Step 4

Pinch the back of the heart at the top center to create a folded look. You can also pinch and pull the bottom of the heart to accentuate the point.

Step 5

Use the blunt point tool to draw in the center vein of the leaf and the side veins.

Step 6

Flip the heart/leaf over and use the needle tool to drill through the pinched area of clay. Keep the hole near to top of the heart/leaf so that it will hang correctly when you string it.

Step 7

Bake the completed leaves and allow them to cool.

Step 8

Wash the entire surface of the baked heart/leaf with the turquoise paint, using the small foam brush or your fingertip. (You may want to wear disposable gloves so that you don't end up with colorful fingers like mine!)

Step 9

Quickly wipe the top surface of the leaf with a dampened paper towel to remove the excess paint from the upper surfaces of the texture.

Step 10

Dip your finger into the Spring Green Pearl Ex Powder and pat it onto random areas of the wet paint. Allow the paint to dry thoroughly.

Step 11

Once the paint is dry, rub your finger across the Copper Pearl Ex Stamp Pad and rub Copper highlights randomly on the leaf. Allow the ink to dry or heat set it. At this point, you can seal the clay with the Matte Glaze.

Step 12

While the heart/leaves are drying, cut 9 4 inch lengths of wire and use your pliers to create a small tight coil at one end of the wire.

Step 13

Thread the straight end of a piece of wire through the back hole of the heart/leaf. Bend up about 1 inch of wire and add a loop at the top that is perpendicular to the surface of the leaf. Use your round nosed pliers to add curves down the length of the remaining wire.
NOTE: if you are adding a bead or charm, thread it onto the wire before threading the wire through the back of the heart/leaf.

Step 14

Bend the front portion of the wire, with the coil (and bead or charm) down against the front of the leaf.

Step 15

Attach the leaves using the top loop created in step 13 to the chain, spacing the leaves evenly across the chain. Add a clasp of your choice. I made a simple “S” clasp to hook into the last loop of chain using the remaining copper wire.

Source: http://www.sculpey.com/

Seen on the web... Geometric cane...

2011-01-04T08:48:00.001+01:00

All credits to Angela B.!!!
Source: http://www.flickr.com/photos/angela21/

Myummie... a polymer clay purse....

2011-01-03T10:44:00.000+01:00

We're still flabbergasted... Lisa Pavelka is really a great artist!

Seen on the web... LOTUS

2011-01-02T13:03:00.000+01:00

Marvelous Lotus Flowers...!!! Compliments to Gris Blue!

1- Modeler 1, 2 ou 3 "boules écrasées" en Fimo ou Kato, les cuire 10 min seulement.
Elles constitueront les moules convexes des 3 coques, les recouvrir de Repel Gel pour la Kato ou d'une bonne couche de cire antiadhérente (ici par exemple), laisser sécher.
2- Préparer un plaque de Fimo de taille moyenne à la pasta machine.

3- Appliquer la plaque sur un des moules,
4- Couper la base au cutter à 1 ou 2 mm de la base, cela facilitera le démoulage.

5- Découper les pétales au cutter, cuire 10 min. Laisser refroidir la pâte un peu et démouler en soulevant doucement chaque pétale au préalable.
6- Poncer en laissant la coque sur le moule.
7 - Former ainsi 1, 2 ou 3 coques de tailles différentes, poncer chaque pétale et la base de la coque à plat.

9- Passer une plaque à la plus grande épaisseur (je la passe dans du papier cuisson pour ne pas salir le blanc),
10- Appliquer de la Fimo liquide sur toute la surface,

11- Former une petite boule blanche et appliquer-la au milieu (avec des gants car le ponçage ne sera pas possible par la suite),
12- Ajuster une première coque et l'enfoncer légèrement dans la plaque,

13- De même, ajuster la 2ème coque,
14- Enlever l'excédent de pâte en découpant au cutter au plus près du lotus,

15- Cuire 10 min, poncer la base et les bords, percer, c'est fini!

Source: http://grisbleu.canalblog.com/

Myummie... blingbling...!!!

2011-01-01T09:57:00.003+01:00

For free projects:

http://www.create-your-style.com/Content.Node/additional/Downloads.en.php?download%5Bfilter%5D%5Bguide%5D=&download%5Bfilter%5D%5Bcategory%5D=&download%5Bfilter%5D%5Byear%5D=&download%5Bfilter%5D%5BfilterChanged%5D=1

Happy NewYear

2010-12-31T23:58:00.001+01:00

Dear readers of our blog, we wish you all the best for 2011!!!

Happy Claying!

Seen on the web... Hollow Bead

2010-12-30T09:41:00.000+01:00

Hohlperle dank Brausetablette
Schön verrückt ist auch verrückt.

Benötigte Materialien:
Die gewünschte Cane
Tool zum Löchlein machen
Modellierwerkzeug zum verschaffen
Brausetablette
Ein Quentchen Verrücktheit

Gut einpacken die Brausetablette! Und unbedingt gut, wirklich wirklich gut verschaffen. Das ist bei diesem verrückten Projekt unendlich wichtig.

mit einem improvisierten Ausstecherchen einen Kreis auszustechen...

Das mache ich auf beiden Seiten und so wie das Teilchen da liegt wandert es in den Backofen.

Ist es gelungen und ausgekühlt machen wir die Perle nun durchsichtig im Wasser *grins* Einfach in ein Glas Wasser schmeissen und warten.

Source: http://fimo.schnugis.net/index.html

Seen on the web... Pinata Painted Clay Tiles

2010-12-28T14:11:00.001+01:00

Piñata Painted Clay Tiles

by syndee holt

This document is also available in printer friendly PDF format:
proj0027.pdf

Materials:

Piñata Inks - I've used Tangerine, Sunshine Yellow, Lime Green and Senorita Magenta
Piñata Cleanup Solution—squeeze a small amount into a paper cup or washable craft container
Neopaque Black
Premo! Sculpey clay—2 oz of Ecru (or White)
Large stamp—mine is a Magenta stamp and the leaf is Rubber Stampede
Brushes—a Jacquard medium writing brush for the Piñatas and a small foam brush for the Neopaque
Small spray bottle of water, paper towels
Paper work surfaces, such as water color paper or index cards

Directions

Knead your clay for a moment and then roll your clay in a flat sheet—wide open on a clay-dedicated pasta machine or about 1/8" thickness. Place the sheet of clay on a paper worksurface.
Lightly spray your stamp with water and press it firmly into the clay sheet. Since my workspace has a cement floor, I put the paper containing the clay on the floor, put the stamp on top and step on it! Remove the stamp and you should have a well-embossed image.
Trim the edges of the clay to the image and we are ready to paint!
I prefer to touch the brush to the tip of the ink bottle to load it with paint. I even mix my colors on the brush in the same manner. Once I have some ink on the brush, I usually do a quick swipe on the work surface (as you can tell by all the lines of color!) Do NOT hold the bottle directly over your image or you may accidentally drop some ink on it! Begin painting in your design. Remember, we are only concerned with the top surfaces of the design.
Note: I wear gloves to keep the Piñata from staining my fingers!
I usually don’t clean my brush between colors that are related—like the orange, magenta and yellow—but I do clean it between those colors and the greens. Clean the brush like you would an brush and then swipe it on your work surface to remove any excess cleanup solution before reloading the brush with color.
You will notice that I mix the Sunshine Yellow quite often into my Lime Green to yield different greens in the background.
Once your painting is complete, clean your brush and prepare to bake the clay. Preheat your oven to 275° F. Place the clay piece on another index card or sheet of unlined paper. Place this paper on your baking tray and place into the preheated oven for 20-25 minutes. Remove and let cool.
Now we will add the dark details to the piece. Make sure you are working on a large sheet of paper because this can get messy! Paint the entire surface with the Black Neopaque.
Quickly swipe the top surfaces of the piece with a dampened paper towel to remove the paint from the inked details.
I like to paint the edges of the clay also. Allow the paint to dry and you are ready to mount your new stamped detail!

Source: http://www.jacquardproducts.com/

Seen on the web... Bracelet with paperclips

2010-12-28T09:15:00.000+01:00

Bracelet tutorial

Hi Everyone,

As promised, here is the tutorial on making simple paper clip bracelets which I showed in my last post here. Time to make, once you get good, not including baking time is probably about a half hour. The hard part is choosing what colours to use.

You'll need:

Circle Kemper Cutters (or equivalent), size 7/16” and 5/8”
Spiral paper clips (8-12, depending on your wrist size and whether you want earrings), I bought mine at Staples, an office supply store in Canada, they come 50 to a pack for about $7
Jump rings, 2 mm inner diameter minimum, 8-12, these can vary in size
A decorative sheet of clay, medium thickness (4 on my Amaco 7 setting pasta machine with 7 as the thickest setting), 2 inches by 2 inches, or big enough to cut 10-12 of the smaller circles. You can be creative here and use veneers, canes, mokume gane, whatever. Mica shift, however, won’t work.
A complementary colour sheet of clay that will form the underneath, same pasta thickness setting, large enough to cut an equivalent number of circles. This can also be decorative but it's not critical.

A general note - I've sized the Kemper cutters to my clay thickness and what I like for the centre piece size. But if you don't have these sizes, change the thickness of your clay. There was some trial and error with this approach. If you find your ball too small, use a thicker piece of clay. Conversely, if you find the ball too large, use a thinner piece of clay or a different size cutter. Ideally you want the patterned piece size just a bit bigger than the diameter of the inner spiral of the paper clip.

Also, you may want to go through the steps just using one ball for the first few tries since you will be playing with sizing and with technique. But it's really easy so if you're at all adventurous you don't have to follow any of my suggestions.

Step 1 - Cut out the circles

Use the smaller Kemper cutters on the decorative sheet and try to choose portions that are interesting. Use the larger Kemper cutters on the complementary clay. Cut an equal number of each. It works best if you flatten the clay onto your cutting surface. That way the clay stays with the sheet and you don't have to worry about plunger marks in your circles.

Step 2 - Roll up the balls
Roll up the larger balls. I find it easier to do this production line format so I would roll all the balls before moving onto the next step.

Step 3 - Cap the large balls with the smaller circles

No real trick here - if you've got blodges of imperfections in the large balls you can cover them with the smaller circles. They should look like little acorns at this point.

Step 4 - Re-roll the large balls with the acorn caps
You'll turn the balls into balls with a bit of pattern on the top. Flatten these balls slightly. Ideally the diameter of the ball will be slightly larger than the diameter of the inner spiral of the paper clip. You can see in the photo below how the paper clip is resting on top of the flattened balls. Make sure you do the flattening so that the decorative sheet is on the top half.

Step 5 - Push the flattened ball through the paper clip
I find the shape better if you put the paper clip on top of the ball and push up through the paper clip. Once you've got the ball into the paper clip, smoosh it gently so that the centre spiral of the clip indents into the edges of the ball a bit. This will hold the ball in place in the paper clip. You can test this by trying to push the ball back out of the bead with some light pressure. You can see in the photo below the general effect.

Shape the top and bottom of the ball to the dome that you would like. You'll probably have finger prints on the ball at this stage so make sure to get rid of them.

Also, if you muck up here and don't like the shape or ding it with a fingernail or whatever other minor tragedies can occur, simply pull the ball out and re-roll. I found I'd be able to do several in a row, then I would start to get overconfident and two or three would mess up.

I didn't worry about whether my spirals were spiraling clockwise or counter clockwise. For the perfectionists among us, you may want to track that.

If you like, you can texture the bottom half or add other effects. Texturing can be a bit of a problem because it'll likely flatten your top surface, but that might be OK, depending on what you've done and what you want. You could actually make the bracelet reversible here if you're good with your bottom choice of clay. Or, you could alternate your clips so that they're facing bottom up, top up, bottom up, top up. There are a lot of options at this point.

Step 6 - Finishing Steps

Bake as usual. Finish however you would like. Some of you will sand and buff (not me, no how no way). I've added a coat of Future to some of the pieces and for the ones with metallics or mica in it it really brings out the shimmer. Use your finish of choice. It might also help a bit with gluing the balls in for the wobbly ones (which is why you might want to make a few extra).

I also sometimes like to put just a tiny dollop of PearlEx into my future before I apply the Future to some of what I finish. It can give it just a bit more oomph. You want it to be barely noticeable.

I made some jump rings for the first couple of bracelets. If you don't know how to make them, check out the simple tutorial here. There are a lot of different tutorials for making jump rings and it depends on how perfectionist you want to be. I simply wrap wire around a mandrel (in this case a knitting needle) tightly and then cut with wire cutters. Apparently that's a bit of a no-no since some of the edges won't join together properly, but my jump rings were so small and I was fussy in how I joined the seams that I didn't notice it. Go ahead and close the jump rings when you make them since you'll be sliding them onto the clips.

Once I got addicted to these I bought some jump rings at Walmart for $2.50 for 144 pieces. I liked the Walmart set because it came in three sizes.

Slide a jump ring onto one of the spiral clips and then slide another clip into the jump ring. There will definitely be a right and wrong side so you may have to slide the second clip on once or twice if you're like me and rotationally challenged. Add another jump ring to the second clip and put the third clip on. Continue until you've got the length that you want.

The one challenge to the bracelet is that it's a bit hard to put on by yourself. If you make your last jump ring a bit larger it's a lot easier to do this. But, if you don't like the look of the larger jump ring you can still use the smaller jump ring and have someone help you. I couldn't find any clasps that made the job easier, but I'm generally not a bracelet person so tend to be a bit uncoordinated when it comes to that anyway.

Earrings are SUPER easy with this technique. No jump ring required, just slide the clip into the earring finding.

Source: http://blog.simple-inspirations.com/2010/06/bracelet-tutorial.html

Seen on the web.... Word Molds...

2010-12-26T09:13:00.000+01:00

Making word molds

Cernit Scrap Clay http://www.clayfactory.net/
Alphabet soup noodles (Found these in the Mexican food section of my grocery store)
Amazing Mold Putty http://www.alumilite.com/
Small piece of Plexiglas or glass (I have one that is 2”x 2 ½” that my fiend Pnina gave me, it is perfect, I can see through it and it is small)
Clay Blade
Piece of cardboard, I use a box top cut to fit in the tray of my oven

1. Condition the scrap clay and make it one color.
2. Run it out in the pasta machine on the thickest setting or 1/8” thick. If you don’t have a pasta machine, place two Popsicle sticks on each side of a flattened with fingers 2” round of clay and roll out with a rolling pin or clear glass jar, make it as smooth as you can or it will show in the mold when it is done.
3. Trim the end of the clay with your blade for a straight edge
4. Find the letters you are going to use, sometimes the letters are not perfect, look for the good ones. Place the letters on to the clay right directly above the cut edge.
5. Place the Plexiglas over the top of the letters and GENTLY press the letters in to the clay. Do not press the letters further than half way in to the clay.

6. Trim all the edges of the clay around the letters and place on your baking cardboard. I like to trim the edges very close to the letters. You can also make shapes if you wish, like thought bubbles and curved pieces, but I mostly use the straight pieces of clay and find that it works best for more situations. Think of word magnets for refrigerators and how you can out them together to form thoughts and statements. Mwaaaahhhhh! Boy can I think of a few choice phrases right now! It is working with phthalate laden clay for all these years that does this to me, wink, wink!

7. Once you have all of your word pieces, bake according to the manufacturers’ directions.

8. When they are cool, scoop out equal amounts of “part a” and “part b” mold putty and mix the white and the yellow together till it is one color about 1 minute to make sure it is completely mixes. Since the words pieces are so small I suggest you use a small scoop-like utensil, like the small end of a melon ball maker or a old ½teaspoon measuring spoon to scoop out the putty. I scoop out one color and then wipe off the spoon with an old towel and scoop out the other color. I get closer to the same amount this way. OR…isn’t there always an or?
Roll a bit of putty in to ½” coils and cut into ½” sections of each color and mix together 1 section of each color together, do not forget to wipe off the knife you cut the coils with, before cutting the other color coil.
Now that you are thoroughly confused…

9. When the colors are thoroughly mixed roll the mixed putty in to a coil that is as long and as wide as the word tile you want to mold. You may be able to make two or three molds from one mixing depending on the size of your scooping tool. Now press the putty down around the tile and make sure it is covering the whole tile and close to the tile on all sides.

10. I press on the top of the putty to press it down and then on all of the side and then down on the top again (not hard, PRESS NOT SMASH). Luckily this putty takes a little time to set up, which is nice so you do have some time, but don’t get up to go to the bathroom once you start mixing this stuff up.

11. After you get them all done, get out of the house for 15-20 minutes, do not do what I do and play with them and move them around and stick my nail in the top. Just go do something else. It is easier on my impatient self when I go away from the putty. If you could see my molds some of them have a ton of nail marks in the top of them. It is fun if you want to do it, just go right ahead, life is short, have fun.

12. After 15-20 minutes you can now stick your nail into the putty and it should not leave a mark that lasts, it will feel like it is bouncing back, then it is done.
13. Release the clay tiles from the putty. I also let them set just a bit longer after I release the tiles to let the inside set a bit more. If the letters stick in the mold, gently pick them out with a needle or a needle tool.

14. Roll a coil of clay about ¼” thick and as long as the mold tile on the inside of the mold.

15. Push the clay in to the mold, the mold will spread a little, so push on all sides of the mold to get the clay strip to be the right size.

16. Slice off the excess clay with your blade by slicing along the top of the mold.

17. Release the clay from the mold gently; try not to smash the letters. I make these molds kind of thin so that when I bend them back they bend easily and the clay releases easily and then I can grab the sides of the clay gently with out wrecking the letters.

18. You can bend the words in to different shapes, if you rub a little Pearl-ex powder just on the surface of the letters with your finger, it will make the letters stand out.

Here are some of the brooches that I make with these word tile molds.

Source: http://mariesegal.blogspot.com/2008/09/making-word-molds.html

Wow.... you must see this!

2010-12-25T12:12:00.007+01:00

Made By Karin Breukelman, Christmas (Light)Bulbies...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/karinbr/4159468335/

Made by Tineke de Haan, a Christmas Tree lamp...
(approx. 50 cm high)

Detail of the Christmas Tree Lamp:

Don't you just love them???

Happy Clay... uh... Christmas!!!!

2010-12-25T09:21:00.001+01:00

We wish you all the best for 2011!!!

Steampunk Gear Necklace

2010-12-15T09:00:00.000+01:00

Steampunk Gear Necklace

Artice by Syndee Holt

Syndee holt loves the steampunk look and has created a quick, simple way of making weathered metal-look gears using metallic Sculpey clays. Her addition of bronze, gold and green beads of all shapes and sizes to the necklace is a perfect addition.

Getting Started

Preheat oven to 275 °F. Test temperature with oven thermometer for perfectly cured clay. Condition all clay by kneading until it’s soft and smooth (Condition the white first, so that your hands are clean. Clean hands with baby wipes between colors) or running it through the Clay Conditioning Machine for several passes on the widest setting. Fold the clay in half after each pass and insert the fold side into the rollers first. All baking should be done by an adult.

Step 1

Roll out half of the Gold clay on the widest setting of the Clay Conditioning Machine. Place the sheet of clay on the index card (or sheet of paper). Put the sheet of paper on a hard surface floor. Lightly spray water onto the texture stamp (water acts as a mold release) and place the stamp on top of the clay sheet and step on it. Step on it from all four sides of the stamp. Remove the stamp and pick up the sheet of paper. Peel the clay from the paper and you should have a perfectly embossed sheet of clay! I've found this unorthodox method to work the best for an deep, even embossed sheet of clay.

Step 2

Repeat for the other half of the clay.

Step 3

Select the largest cutter and cut out a circle of clay from the texture sheet of clay. Use one of the star points to cut out the gears in the outside edge of the clay circle.

Step 4

Use one of the smaller circles or square cutters to cut out the center of the gear.

Step 5

Repeat with your smaller cutters to make an assortment of gear sizes.

Step 6

Highlight the textures on your gears by rubbing the Pearl Ex powders across random areas of the gear.

Step 7

Drill a hole in the top and bottom sections of one of the larger gears if you wish to suspend one above the main pendant as I did.

Step 8

Bake according to your clay package directions and allow to cool.

Step 9

The black craft paint will really bring out the textures of the clay and the Pearl Ex colors. Brush each gear with black paint and quickly wipe the top surface with a damp paper towel to remove the paint from the top surfaces of the texture. Allow the gears to dry.

Step 10

Assemble the gears in an overlapping pattern and glue into place. NOTE: Support the upper gears while drying with unused gears to keep them in place until they dry.

Step 11

While the gears are drying, make 4-5 large jump rings from the Gun Metal 16 gauge wire by wrapping the wire 7 times around a mandrel, piece of copper tubing or wooden dowel that is about 3/8 inch in diameter. Cut 4-5 jump rings from the coiled wire and set aside.

Step 12

Open one of the jump rings and slip it around the top right gear. Add a link of chain and close the ring. Repeat on the left side. Slide jump rings into the holes on the large gear and attach the bottom jump ring to the left side jump ring. Attach the upper jump ring to the chain link. Measure the chain to the desired length and add your clasp.

Step 13

Cut a 12 inch piece of the 26 gauge Gold Wire and thread it through one of the gears. Twist the wire a couple of times against the back of the clay pendant and use your channel pliers to flatten the twist. Randomly weave this wire back and forth through the gears, adding beads. Twist another piece of wire, if needed, to the end and continue weaving until you feel like the design is complete. Push the wire to the back and wrap around the closest wire in the back several times. Trim the wire and compress the wrap with the channel pliers.

HINT:

Save the Styrofoam trays that food comes in for bead trays. This way you can put all the assorted beads into the tray and mix them up. It also makes it easier to thread the beads onto the wire.

Source: http://www.sculpey.com/

Steampunk Pendant

2010-12-14T08:59:00.000+01:00

All Clay Steampunk Pendant

Article by Syndee Holt

Syndee and her family love, love the steampunk look, but buying all the metal doodads and clock parts can get expensive quite fast. So one day she decided to see if she could do them all out of clay, since she instantly relate anything that interests me back to clay, “That's cool, she could do that in clay though.”

Getting Started

Clock Face

Roll out a small sheet of Gold clay on the widest setting of the clay machine. Ink your stamp and lightly press onto the raw clay. We are NOT embossing the ink into the clay. Use your circle cutter to cut out the stamped clock. Bake as directed in a preheated oven. I sat down one evening and made dozens of these clock faces in Gold, Pearl and Copper clay to have on hand for projects like this.

Gears

1. Roll out a sheet of Copper Premo! Sculpey on the #2 setting on your clay conditioning machine. Use the ¾ inch cutter to make a circle of clay. To create the gear teeth, go around the edge of the circle using only ONE of the star points. Try to keep the cutter straight and make space your teeth evenly.
2. Use the smallest circle cutter to cut out the center of the gear or leave solid if you wish!
3. Create several sizes and colors of gears for your piece.

Key

Bail

Roll a small amount of Black clay out on the #2 setting of your clay conditioning machine. Cut a long, thin “jester” triangle that measures about 2-1/2 inches long and is about an inch wide at the base. Roll the tip to create the “bail” to string your pendant. Set aside.

Assembly

1. Make a thin sheet of clay (about #3 on your clay conditioning machine) that is slightly larger than your baked clock face.

2. Set the clock face onto this sheet of clay and wrap the edges of the clay up around the clock face. Press out any air bubbles on the back of the clock face or around the edges.
3. Use the Super Slicer blade to cut around the top edge of the clock face, trimming the black clay to just the edge of the baked clay, creating a small black “frame” of clay around the clock face.

4. Trim the remaining clay on the key to about ½ inch and flatten the clay. Press the key into place on the left side of the framed clock face. Use the portion of clay you cut off to add the bottom of the key on the other side.

5. Press your gears into place on top and below the clock face. Press the bottom of the bail onto the top back of the clock face assembly.

Finishing

Bake in your preheated oven according to the clay package directions.

You can brush a small amount of Pearl Ex on the top surface of your “gears” before baking to make some of the gears appear “newer” than others.

Source: http://www.sculpey.com/

Surface Tutorial... (very exciting!)

2010-12-12T09:36:00.002+01:00

Can't wait to try!!!!!!!!!!!!
All credits to: http://lesethiopiques.over-blog.com/ Please visit her blog for more beautiful work!

Starsssss....

2010-12-07T08:51:00.002+01:00

It's almost Christmas time... and we saw at Parole de Paté two brilliant Star Cane tutorials...
Definitely superb! We wanted to share...

Made by: http://lesethiopiques.over-blog.com/

La première partie est empruntée à Donna Kato (ainsi que je l'ai précisé dans le tuto) mais la deuxième est le fruit de mes pérégrinations polymèresques.

Source: http://paroledepate.canalblog.com/archives/2010/11/23/index.html

Materials Needed:
One blown out egg Glass sead beads, or uncooked rice Pasta machine Scrap clay 1 block of Premo Gold 1/4 block of Premo Blue Pearl 1/2 block of Premo Copper Needle tool	Tissue blade Clay gun with 7-hole spaghetti disk Clay gun pusher Wet/dry sandpaper in 400, 600, 800, 1000 and 1500 grit Old soft toothbrush Soft paintbrush or sponge paint applicator Future acrylic floor finish

The girls next door

Craquele... seen on the web...

Real leaves... seen on the web

Cookies.... myummie! Seen on the web...

Geometry... seen on the web

Wauwwwww..... seen on the web...

How to: Make a texture roller for clay

Circus beads... seen on the web!

Lisa Pavelka's Tips

Bezels... seen on web!

Happy newyear!!!

Flowersssss earrings.... seen on the web

How to write special characters??

A must have!!!

Acorn earings - seen on the web

Anti-winter-project! DIY Fossils

Googley Eyed Bangle - seen on the web

How to remove acrylic paint?

How to make your own air dried porcelain with common household ingredients

Knot bracelets - seen on the web

Bird ornaments... seen on the web

Merry Christmas & Happy Newyear!

Lovely Chrismas pendants... seen on the web!

We lovvvvvve flowers... DIY... seen on the web...

Presents? Seen on the web...

Flowerssss! Seen on the web!

Warmmmmmm!

Paperrrrrr

Bookshelves...

Creative mirror....

Miniatures... myummie!

Halloween Ghosts!

Brand Comparison by Cara Jane

Brand Comparison - written by Cara Jane

Wearables from the Oven

Challenge Dutch forum

Paper Flowers, seen on the web

Seen on the web... more pearlzzzzz....

Seen on the web... pearlzzzz....

Seen on the web... leaves....

Seen on the web... beautiful flowers...

Seen on the web... Mjummie!

Seen on the web... snowflake cane tutorial

Seen on the web...Paper Rosie Hair Pin

Seen on the web... Anke's Flower Pins

Seen on the web: I like candy!!!

Materials

Instructions

More Candy Hearts Info

Seen on the web: Tulip by Elena Samsonova

Challenge girls next door

Seen on the web: Oooooh=-Rings!

Seen on the web... wauwwwwwww!

Seen on the web... Second Rainbow...

Seen on the web: Hot & wet summer Ring!!

Seed Beads Bracelet...

Buttons...

Seen on the web... pearlzzzzz....

Seen on the web... Filigree Egg

Seen on the web... Skinner Blended Flower Cane

Seen on the web... Mica Shift Box

Seen on the web... washi paper bracelet

Washi Paper and Clay Bracelets

Materials:

Directions

Seen on the web... Mold-n-Pour...

Organics - Jana Roberts Benzon - 17 & 18 September 2011 - The Netherlands

Laser Cut Workshop - Jana Roberts Benzon - 10 & 11 September - The Netherlands

Workshop Donna Kato 02.-03. April 2011 Liechtenstein

Apple earrings... myummie... seen on the web

Seen on the web... swirled pendant

Seen on the web... Mokume Gane

Seen on the web... geometric fish cane

Supplies

Steps

Fins

Scales

Fish Head

Assembly

Seen on the web... Knitting...